Taganana: Northern Tenerife’s Hidden Gem (A Travel Guide)

Taganana is a gem of northern Tenerife. It’s a pretty village in a picturesque area, surrounded by unspoiled beaches, rolling vineyards and lush forest. The Anaga mountains also provide a dramatic backdrop. 

Taganana is a tiny but very pretty village in northeastern Tenerife. It lies in a valley beneath the Anaga mountain range within Anaga Rural Park, and is surrounded by swaying palm trees. This area is very picturesque, and characterised by quaint whitewashed architecture, fresh fish restaurants, a nature reserve, spectacular views and untamed beaches – all set against a dramatic backdrop of sharp peaks. 

Taganana is one of Tenerife’s oldest villages. The cultivation of sugar canes commenced here in the early 16th century, but during the 17th century the focus switched to wine making in this region. This resulted in vineyards being planted on the fertile hills around Taganana. 

This area is one of the most beautiful in Tenerife, and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Incredibly, Taganana was only connected to telephone networks and electricity a couple of decades ago. The area has thus escaped the mass tourism affecting some parts of the Canary Islands – and much of Europe. 

It’s a great place to take a day trip, though we recommend staying overnight if you can. To find out about what to do, where to stay, the best places to eat, the hiking routes and the beautiful beaches of the area, read on. This is the complete guide to Taganana, Tenerife. 

Alternatively, visit Taganana during a day trip. It can be combined with the capital Santa Cruz, or San Cristobal de la Laguna.

Best Time to Visit

Like other parts of northern Tenerife, the weather in the Taganana area is cooler and more humid than in the southern resorts. This climate is the reason why you can enjoy views over the lush green landscape during your stay, though, as compared to the drier, more desert-like southern region. There can be stark differences between the weather in the village and in the mountains too, as the latter can often be much colder and more humid. 

Overall, the best time to visit the Taganana area is between May and December. These months are the driest, with more rain between January and April. Annual average temperatures are around 21°C, with 23°C being usual for August and 18°C in February. 

We visited Taganana in September and in April. During autumn it was considerably warmer, sunnier and drier. In spring the weather was wet, and light rain was typical. It wasn’t too cold, though. Both the adults and the kids felt fine when wearing a hoodie or a light rain jacket during mountain hikes. 

In short – we would visit the area at any time of the year. I wouldn’t skip this gem of an area due to less than perfect weather. It’s simply too beautiful to miss out on.

Where to Stay in Taganana

Casa La Poyata

Casa La Poyata is a three bedroom, two bathroom holiday home with lots of outdoor space for guests to enjoy. There’s a balcony, a terrace and a garden boasting amazing views. This lovely home comes equipped with modern amenities like a flatscreen TV and a full kitchen. 

We stayed in this home during 2022, and have only good things to say about it. A unique feature is the fact that every room here has an entrance from the exterior, and they are not connected indoors. If you’re staying in the bedroom without an en suite, you thus need to head outside to reach the bathroom. 

This certainly makes a stay in the house a true one-off – and an authentic experience. Though it’s not really suited to anyone with limited mobility, as you will use the stairs often.

The house itself has a great rooftop terrace offering panoramic 360 degree views over the ocean and surrounding mountains. You can also access a large and pleasant barbeque area right outside the house throughout your stay. 

The kitchen is well set-up, with all the equipment you need plus plenty of useful extras. Location-wise the house is superb, being situated just outside Taganana’s main square, and by a beautiful old church.

It can be a little tricky to locate the house, and we had problems doing so. If you do decide to stay here, please feel free to drop us a message via the contact form – or leave a comment under the article. We’d be only too happy to help you out.

Casa Campo y Playa Taganana – Adults Only

Casa Campo y Playa Taganana is a clean, spacious holiday home offering two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a balcony and an ocean view terrace. The house is classically Canarian in style and comes equipped with a washing machine plus a DVD and CD players and a TV. 

This house is close to Santa Catalina de Alejandria church. It’s around five minutes’ walk from central Taganana, and you can reach Anaga Rural Park by car in just a few minutes. Welcoming hosts, stunning views and a peaceful position make this a very pleasant place to stay. 

Casa Rural El Puente

Casa Rural El Puente is a two bedroom apartment that’s also close to the church of Santa Catalina de Alejandria in central Taganana, Tenerife. The apartment comes complete with a full kitchen, a dining area, WiFi, flatscreen TV and a garden with a sunny, seaview terrace. 

Bonus – Apartamento La Maresia

This two bedroom apartment is about a mile-and-a-quarter (or two kilometres) from Taganana. It’s included here because the location is incredible. Stay here and you’ll be right on the beach, enjoying fabulous ocean views. When booking, make sure you select the upper apartment, however, as the ground floor one isn’t as well maintained.

Another thing to bear in mind is that restaurants in this area close early – about 6pm at the latest. The nearest small grocery store is in central Taganana, so do bring food and other supplies with you if you can. Once you arrive, a well-equipped kitchen with a hob and oven makes it simple to self-cater. 

You can also catch a bus to Santa Cruz, the island capital, from right by the apartment. 

Things to Do in Taganana

Call at the Viewpoints en Route to Taganana

Anaga Rural Park offers numerous breathtaking viewpoints – and several are conveniently located en route to Taganana. This means you can stop while passing by, rather than taking a detour.

Mirador Bailadero

El Bailadero offers scenic views of the ocean and mountains, with Taganana nestled in the valley. Taganana is surrounded by rolling vineyards, lush laurel forests and the dramatic peaks of Anaga, and all this can be clearly seen from the viewpoint. The panoramas are always different, too, as they vary with the changing weather. 

Location: Google Maps

Mirador Risco Amogoje

You’ll pass Mirador Risco Amogoje just before getting to Taganana village, so do stop here if you can. The sweeping views over the ocean and mountains are jaw-dropping, and it’s the perfect place for taking pictures. Follow the short trail here to get the best photos of Taganana. 

Location: Google Maps

Discover Iglesia Nuestra Señora de las Nieves Church

The Church of Our Lady of the Snows dates back to 1505. It’s among Tenerife’s oldest, and boasts an original 16th century flamenco artwork in three sections. The structure itself also has an attractive red tower decorated with curving bell arches. 

Outside the church is a lovely square, which is a hangout for locals and visitors alike. There is a good kids’ playground here too. Opposite the church you can also find Ermita de Santa Catalina Mártir de Alejandría – or the Monastery of St. Catherine –  that dates back to 1621. 

There are a few places to park near the church square, but the roads leading to it are very narrow. This makes parking in Taganana a challenge. We thus recommend parking by the main road before walking to the village.

Visit the Wonderfully Wild Beaches

Make sure you seek out a Taganana beach or two during your visit. These wild, untamed beaches are mind blowing – and nothing like the beaches in Tenerife South. Just bear in mind that swimming at some of these is not advised, as there are super strong currents and high, powerful waves.

Playa del Roque de las Bodegas

Playa Roque de las Bodegas is the most popular beach in the Taganana area. It’s worth visiting due the position among the Anaga foothills. The beach has black sand, shingle and pebbles, is rarely crowded, and there are several decent seafood restaurants on the road close by. There are no tourist facilities such as sun loungers, parasols or showers here. 

With calmer waters, this beach is more family friendly than others, but you should still watch out for strong currents and large swells. While you’re here, you might like to call at the Roque de Las Bodegas viewpoint (location) for incredible ocean vistas. 

You can use bus number 946 to reach the beach from Taganana.

Playa de Almaciga

Crashing waves and rugged rocks characterise Playa de Almaciga. This beach also lies within the Anaga rural park and close to Santa Cruz de Tenerife. This stretch of coastline has black volcanic sand, and due to strong wave action is popular with surfers. The beach is never crowded, and offers parking close by. 

You can use bus number 946 to reach the beach from Taganana.

Benijo Beach

Beautiful Benijo beach is a glorious coastal spot that’s perfectly framed by dramatic rock formations and cliffs. This beach showcases nature at its finest, and is quite unlike anywhere else on the island.

Witnessing the sunset here is to see one of the most stunning and dramatic sights in Tenerife. Make sure you arrive a couple of hours before sunset, as the sun becomes obscured by the mountains sooner here. 

Benijo beach is popular with the surfing community, and can have very strong tides and currents. Swimming is thus not advised. Access is via a staircase, so it can also be difficult for people with mobility issues. There is no lifeguard on duty here, nor any amenities such as beach kiosks or showers. 

Dine at One of the Fabulous Fish Restaurants

Taganana restaurants provide the perfect opportunity to sample authentic Canarian cuisine. Local specialities to try include the freshest fish and seafood including grilled octopus or prawns, goat’s cheese, Canarian rosé wine and much more.

Guachinche Bibi y Mana

The menu may be short, but this restaurant offers super-fresh fish and delicious local dishes like Canarian potatoes. 

Casa Picar

Casa Picar is ideal for traditional Spanish tapas and freshly prepared seafood, and is one of the top-rated Tenerife restaurants. 

Restaurante Playa Casa Africa

This eatery is by Playa del Roque de las Bodegas rather than in Taganana. It’s great for salads, fish dishes and Canarian drinks like rose wine and Barraquito. 

Restaurante La Ola

Restaurant La Ola is also by the beach, this time in Playa de Almaciga. The views are breathtakin,g and Italian food is available as well as Spanish and Mediterranean. 

El Frontón

By Benijo beach, El Fronton offers exceptional views over the water. As there’s on-site parking, you can enjoy a meal here before heading down to the beach. Expect fresh seafood, Canarian potatoes and good quality drinks. 

Hiking in Taganana

Most visitors flock here to take part in a Taganana hike or two. Though there are numerous impressive hikes within Anaga Rural Park, a few of the area’s routes do actually begin in the village. 

Don’t miss our complete Anaga guide for more hikes in the area.

Taganana – Playa del Tamadite

This hike between Taganana village and Playa de Tamadite follows the panoramic  Anaga coastline. The first port of call is El Chorro, a little village within wine-making country. After crossing Barranco de Afur stream, you can relax and enjoy a picnic at Playa de Tamadite. This beach has black sand at low tide, or pebbles when the tide is high. 

You can use this trail map for a 5.9-mile (9.5 km) out-and-back trail from Taganana to Playa del Tamadite. The moderately challenging circular route takes around three-and-a-half hours to complete. There are stunning views throughout, and wildflowers during spring and summer. 

Las Vueltas de Taganana

This route was first established to connect Taganana with Santa Cruz and La Laguna. Now, the circular hiking takes you through laurel forests and along slopes with stunning views. There are many twists and turns en route, and you can look out for natural springs, terraced farmland, stone walls and the original cobblestones.

The views and terrain are varied, with local fauna and fauna to see along the way. Due to slippery spots, you’ll need to take care when following this moderately challenging route. We recommend doing this hike counter clockwise.

You can use this trail map for the 5-mile (8 km) loop trail within Anaga Rural Park. On average, this route takes a little under four hours to complete, and is generally very peaceful. 

Benijo – El Draguillo vía Camino del Hediondo

This one begins very close to Taganana, near Benijo beach. The trail can be found right by the El Frontón restaurant recommended above. We couldn’t possibly miss out this hike, as it’s one of the most stunning in Tenerife.

The route is abundant in charm from start to finish. Along the way you’ll pass through El Draguillo, a small hamlet, before tackling the steep ascent. There are breathtaking views of the coastline and Anaga mountains, plus Roque Benijo and Roque La Rapadura, two rocks framing Benijo beach. When taking this hike, expect a long uphill slog followed by a more relaxing descent. 

You can use this map for the moderately challenging 3.1-mile (5 km) loop trail from Benijo to El Draguillo vía Camino del Hediondo. It takes around two-and-a-half hours to finish, and is open all year round.

How to Get to Taganana

The good news is that you can reach Taganana by bus. There is only one route that can get you here, however. Bus number 946 comes to Taganana from the capital Santa Cruz. The journey takes about 50 minutes, and costs 1,25€. It’s a very scenic trip to take.

You can actually organise your entire stay in Taganana without needing a car. There is a small shop in the village, and you could bring some groceries with you. There are several restaurants in the centre of the village too. 

Two of the area’s two beautiful wild beaches can also be reached via the same bus route 946. With two good hikes beginning and ending within the village, it’s totally manageable when you have no car. 

Having your own hire car does of course offer much more flexibility, however. You can reach more hiking trails, access even more beaches and also visit Anaga Rural Park in your own vehicle. 

The road to Taganana is a winding one, but we wouldn’t say that it’s too difficult a drive. The road is in good condition, and wide enough for two cars to pass one another. If you enjoy driving, then you will absolutely love the scenic road leading to the village as it’s very beautiful. You can also stop at various viewpoints on your way here.

The streets in the village itself are really narrow. It’s not necessary to drive within central Taganana though. You can leave the car by the roadside, near the village entrance. 

In fact we’d advise doing just that, because there are almost no parking spaces at all within the village. A few do exist – such as five spaces near the square and the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de las Nieves – but they are almost always occupied. When we actually found a spot there one evening, parking in it was a big challenge. So it’s much easier just to leave your car by the road near the bus stop (here) when visiting.